I am going to be honest and say now that I have always felt an outsider when it came to fashion week; I’ve never lived in London or any other fashion capital that’s allowed me to get up close to the hype of this time of the season, and actually as a younger fashion enthusiast always found the concept of fashion week extremely intimidating. I aspired to be someone who knew the recognisable characteristics of world-renowned designers and could spot designs from a mile-off, but of course twelve-year-old me didn’t know that that was unrealistic at that age, and that this kind of knowledge would take years of dedicated #passionforfashion — I say, bitterly realising that here I am, 21 years old, frantically refreshing the Vogue Runway app from my bed and hastily posting my favourite looks to my Instagram story with the caption “MOLLY GODDARD AS ALWAYS *heart eye emoji*“. (Or “yawn @michaelkors“.)
So I’ve decided to, instead of clog up my social media accounts even more with my endless runway screenshots and gushing captions, culminate them all here with a round-up of a couple of my favourite trends that I noticed emerging at New York and London Fashion Weeks, courtesy of some of my favourite names. In fact, Rejina Pyo I loved so much I am considering throwing all of my clothes out imminently and recreating the entire collection as my new capsule wardrobe. If a girl can’t live off sugary pastel trouser suits, slip skirts or gingham blouses I honestly can’t help her.
Trend spot #1: Witchy vibes, courtesy of Ryan Lo and Batsheva.
Ryan Lo showcased a sugary pink fairytale story for the future of females. There were no damsels in distress here — cutesy, feminine cuts and indulgent tulle, frills and ribbons, pastel pinks and polka dots (which are not dead, I am thrilled to discover) were combined with a darker, mystical pagan aesthetic which was almost too obvious. Large pointed hats and broomsticks gave a nod to feminine archetypes and the growing reawakening of spirituality and a “coven”-like approach to female support and community.
This was seen again in Batsheva’s latest collection, although in a more solemn, self-celebratory fashion, combining the designer’s signature modest prairie dresses with Wiccan symbols and props in the collection’s lookbook, creating an almost cinematic display of female magic and power that would feel at home in an artsy horror film. Someone please show me a supernatural blockbuster that contains only Batsheva dresses and I will be your first box office customer.
#2: Silky pyjamas, but make it fashion. By Eckhaus Latta, Rejina Pyo and Anna Sui (to name a few).
Finally, the fashion world has listened to my prayers and is going to make it acceptable for me to leave my flat and walk to Tesco in my silky nightie to buy pasta. Whether this is an upcoming trend or something I just willed to appear enough so it did, it looks like nightwear-as-daywear is here to stay. There has been an ongoing relationship between “underwear as outerwear” for decades but the line determining the acceptability of wearing actual silk pyjamas as a trouser suit has always been a blurry one, so thank god for Rejina Pyo for clearing that up. Eckhaus Latta’s toned-down collection of boxy tailoring, cut-out pieces and slips included this powder blue cowl neck dress that I can’t stop picturing throwing on under a huge knitted jumper, Mansur Gavriel-style. Anna Sui’s Wanderlust collection was full of silky separates, including this mint green mermaid-esque trouser suit. So in summary, all I’m buying for summer next year is elegant, breezy nightwear sets.
#3: Dress as though you are made of real life cake icing in monochrome pastel shades, as per Marc Jacobs.
We all thought millenial pink was dead, but Marc Jacobs has confirmed quite the opposite, with a collection almost entirely made up of sugared pink, butter yellow (Gen Z yellow is on the rise), mint green and baby blue. The hyper-feminine collection combined lace and silk slips, again, with voluminous trench coats and ribbon ties, and layered ruffled dresses, which bore resemblance to tiered cakes, with sparkly hosiery and platform heels.
This wasn’t the only runway that saw simplistic colour palettes take over; Rejina Pyo also placed a focus on monochrome summer shades. Just look at that blue trouser suit. I can only be grateful for this trend which will make summer outfit planning 10x easier. Does it look like it could be an ice cream flavour? Yes? Wear it.
#4: Victoriana femininity from Simone Rocha and Erdem.
I still remember Erdem Moralioglu being the first designer I fell in love with (which probably came down to me seeing the name in a magazine and researching everything about him to sound clued-up) and this collection didn’t disappoint. Erdem took his signature gowns, florals and feminine shapes and gothed them up. Black veils and neckties were paired with long flouncing Victorian-style dress, but with a shot of colour, mesh or embroidery. The whole collection gave me a feeling of “mysterious widow at rich ex-husband’s funeral”.
I also spotted this antique-inspo at Simone Rocha, who showcased elegant gowns layered with gossamer veils, shawls and slip skirts. The intricate, yet girlish lace trims and floral embroidery were juxtaposed with bold prints of oriental paintings and loud feathered slippers. I found this nod towards elegant historical female dress an interesting contrast to many other designers who are broadening their collections to blur the lines between gendered fashion, and rejecting typical feminine shapes. But are Erdem and Simone Rocha reinventing this presentation of femininity to fit snugly in with the contemporary? Erdem’s plunging necklines, exposed shoulders and popping colours told us that elegant femininity can also be loud and daring, and Rocha’s exploration of her Chinese background brought a personal, autobiographical background to the assemblage of each look.
Photos from vogue.com. Featured image by Corey Tenold.